Sunday, 3 November 2013

Mosey's Road Home


   “May you have a long and happy life.”
Mosey's road home

Written by: Thomas John McClean Hetherington, with the assistance of Andrew and Gary McClean Hetherington, September, 2013.
This is a story about “wee folk”, fathers and sons and a place in Ireland. It is based in fact and was told to me by my father, Robert John McClean Hetherington (Robbie).
Robert John McClean Hetherington (Robbie)

My father was a story teller, and as such may not have let the truth stand in the way of creating a good yarn. I apologize if I misrepresent the true nature of the people described. My story is based on the 52 year old memories of a child. I leave it to the reader to judge its truth.

When I was a boy my father told me stories about the place where he was born -- a troubled place filled with family members who exist only in the memories of their loved ones -- people brought to life in his stories.

The date was November 1960, the year before the death of his grandparents, and Robbie Hetherington and his 9 year old son Tommy sat in the living room of their house at 925, 6th Street in New Westminster.




925 6th Street, New Westminster

Robbie was in his favourite chair next to the fireplace. The smell of Erin More pipe tobacco filled the room with a pungent odour that Tommy always associated with his dad. These were special times listening as his dad told stories about the “Old Country.”

Robbie took several short pulls on his pipe to stoke the embers, exhaled and said, “ Aye, the last Hetherington still on the hill is my sister Eileen. The rest have moved away because of troubles and better pensions. Was a time when Creggan Hill was home to the Holmes, McCleans, Johnstons and Hetheringtons.” “Most are gone now to the other side of the border – my parents and William James moved to County Down.” The Johnstons are the only ones that remain there in any real numbers. With everyone gone the house was turning into a pile of rubble,” he said.

Robbie was born on Creggan Hill in 1910 in a house near Raphoe in County Donegal. His life was to be shaped by civil war, immigration to Canada in 1928, heroic military service, and his later years, a thyroid problem, sleep apnea and bouts of alcoholism. He was a spiritual man and a Mason, and not really a church goer. He believed in always doing one’s duty, and the trauma he experienced from doing his, damaged his soul. He died at age 65. His ashes are spread in the garden of St. Mary's Anglican Church in New Westminster.

The land where Robbie was born was initially leased by the Hetheringtons from the Church of Ireland, and eventually purchased in 1905. Located in Upper Glenmaguin, it is best accessed from a narrow road that ends at the crest of Creggan Hill. The Hetherington plot is straight ahead.

“Aye”, Robbie started again, sipping on a warm cup of tea. “Was a time when we were all related there. Before the automobile we got around by foot and that meant that there weren’t many people that you could marry -- so we married each other, like the royal family,” Robbie said with an impish grin. “You can see that in our family tree, McCleans married Hetheringtons for several generations. “It’s why our last names are McClean Hetheington,” he said in a matter of fact tone.

“There were two McClean families on the hill, and the Mosey McClean branch had a reputation for being a bit wild and strange. A lane, we called “the street” passed in front of Mosey’s place,” he explained. “McClean's had a garden immediately across 'the street' from their house and I remember picking gooseberries there - they were terribly sour.” he said puckering his lips.



Mosey McClean House with child in door frame

He continued, “the McCleans could hear a piece of music once and then play it from memory. Some say they could read minds.”

“But when it came to ‘the gift’, the person I learned the most from was William James,” he said. “When I was growing up, William James lived with us, at least he did when we weren't all separated because of work away and The Revolution,” Robbie said with a deep sigh. “I had to stop going to school at age 10. They turned Glenmaquin School into barracks for the Black and Tans and that was the end of my schooling.”

After a pause, “William James was a fine man with a shovel. One time he dug a drainage ditch down “the street” by hand,” Robbie said, obviously impressed.


William James and Andrew McClean Hetherington

After a sip of his strong dark tea, Robbie reached into his shirt pocket and pulled out an old photograph, he passed it to Tommy who examined it closely.


McClean Hetherington House

“The house was built of stones, from fist sized to arm sized, gathered from the earth ‘round about. There was no money for mortar so we used local 'blue clay'. This clay is found underneath the turf. I remember being out with my Dad clearing out a sheugh, and he showed me the gravel layer with the blue clay on top. This he said was from the time of Noah and the Great Flood. He was a very religious man,” he paused, puffed and continued.

“The clay was fine as a binder as long as it was dry, but we had to whitewash once a year to waterproof it, and we had to tar the bottom foot or so to help prevent rising damp,” he said gently waving his pipe in a painting motion.

“As you can see the house was a single story affair. The thatch was made of rushes taken from the wet ground in front of the house. We usually kept a cow in the byre on the left, next was the main room. Everything happened in the main room. It was our living room, bedroom, and kitchen. There was a hearth with a crane and crook for cooking, with a cast iron kettle permanently on the boil. Never was a man turned away without the offer of hot tea. My dad and William James never drank tea from a cup or mug, it was always from a bowl. They said it was to keep their hands warm.” He paused again sipped his tea, briefly closed his eyes as if searching his memory and said, “there was a table, a couple of chairs, a homemade bench to sit on, and a dresser to store a few plates and mugs. This dresser formed a bit of a wall, and with another bit of thin plywood, created a small room with a bed. Along the far wall beside the hearth was my parents’ bed which had a curtain to keep the draughts out. Not too much room for us all and sometimes I'd just go out into the fields to look at the stars and find peace,” he said with a far off look in his eyes.

As if waking from a dream, he continued, “there were no house numbers on the hill, and the local postman had the job for life and knew everybody. When I was back during the war, the postman was Henry Gallagher who was based at Knockbrack post office 3 or 4 miles away. The house was at the end of his round and he would have his tea and a piece of homemade bread and jam before heading back. Occasionally, he'd come up to the house in the evening with his melodeon for a bit of a ceilidh. Aye, was always was good to hear music on the hill, made it magical: music, laughter and the warm glow of the hearth,” he paused and rubbed his eyes with a hankie that he drew from his pants pocket and blowing his noise said, “Aye, it was grand”.

Replacing the hankie in his pocket and referring back to the picture he continued, “You see the hawthorn tree beside the house? As a boy I would pick the unripe haws and with a piece of weed with a hollow center use it as a pea shooter, I remember one time I hit my brother Johnston with a haw and it caused quite a row. “


Johnston and Robbie 1943/44

Robbie paused a took a draw on his pipe which had gone out due to the length of the story so he fished a match box out of his small black leather tobacco bag, struck a match on the striking paper on the side of the box and put it to the bowl. After a couple of draws the tobacco started to glow and after one or two more puffs he continued putting the box and bag on the table.

“The blackthorn bush is related to the hawthorn and both have magical powers. Fairy folk are said to guard blackthorn trees and will not let anyone cut branches - if you do you will be cursed with bad luck. Farmers would plough around a blackthorn so as not to annoy the fairy folk,” he said earnestly. “I have seen instances of a single blackthorn in a field is undisturbed by the farmer. The wee folk seem to like the thick, impenetrable thorn bramble, may be because it hides the entrances to their houses,” Robbie said knowingly.

After a short pause, he started, “many years ago, Moses McClean, stumbled out of the Red Hand Pub in Raphoe and into the darkness.“

Mosey McClean

“He was a young man then, a grand man and very well liked, when wasn't drinking. Almost named you after him,” Robbie said to Tommy, “but your mum didn't think a name like Moses was quite right for a Canadian lad, so we named you Tommy instead.” “She said it was to remember her uncle Tom Achtimechuck but to me you were named after my brother in – law Tommy Johnston.”
This story is about Mosey before he took the pledge,” Robbie added as if to defend the man's honour. “Mosey was a bit of a dare devil always tempting fate with some kind of antic. I will always remember him, on his bicycle careening erratically down the Creggan lane, bouncing off the seat, barely avoiding collision and laughing like a mad man as he left for the pub!”

Suddenly Robbie looked pensive, “he met a sorry end, he did. He left Raphoe for Scotland......... they found his shoes on the shore and body in Kirkcaldy harbour. Sometime later both his sons, Willie and Sam drowned in the same harbour. People say they were suicides........” he said in a hushed tone.

After another draw on his pipe he continued, “but that night as the barman locked the door behind him, Mosey prepared for the long walk down the Convoy road to Creggan lane and then up the hill to his bed. He mumbled to himself, I need to drink less or find a place to sleep in town, I am sick of this long walk, especially at night. Luckily, a full moon was just appearing on the horizon. Good, I’ll not have to walk in the dark, he thought as he buttoned up his ragged coat. Fortunately, he had managed to buy the remnants of a bottle of Bushmills from the barkeep. Now penniless but with fortification against the cold night air he stumbled off across The Diamond.”


“He avoided the graveyard at St. Eunnan’s, Mosey never felt comfortable around graveyards especially at night. His sister had told him that was because he was afraid of going to hell because of the trouble he caused by his fondness of “drink”.

“By the time Mosey got to the Creggan lane he was really starting to get tired and was tempted to lay down for a sleep. Instead he reached in his pocket and pulled out the partially consumed bottle and took a long pull. That will help me get home he thought as a stumbled up the narrow lane. After a while he walked past the Johnston house and eventually reached the end of the road. He stopped and finished his bottle. Throwing the empty into the hedge he looked across the fields and saw Hetherington place straight ahead. He noticed a small light flickering in the window. I wonder if Andrew or William James were up? They are not big drinkers but may be they'll invite me in for a drink, or at least a cup of tea, he thought, and started walking toward the dimly lit window. The field was very mucky and each step made a sucking sound as his foot lifted from the muck and a squishing sound as it went back down again. Suck, squish. suck, squish, he plodded onwards, until he found himself it the door of the Hetherington house. He knocked.

Unfortunately, it was not Andrew or William James who answered but his sister, Maggie. “Whose there” she shouted from behind the door. “Your brother,” Mosey responded. The door opened and a woman in a nightshirt stood in the door frame. What are you doing up in the middle of the night, you been drinking again? She asked in an angry tone. “May be just a wee drop” Mosey responded, looking down at his feet. “I told you before, don’t come around when you’ve been drinking, I’ll have none of that.” Go home and go to bed,” she said, slamming the door in his face.

Maggie McClean Hetherington
Disappointed with his reception (and the absence of even the of a cup of tea) he turned and started to walk home. After a few paces, he became dizzy, lost his balance, and fell face first into the clabber. Too tired to get up he bundled up in his coat and rolled up near the hedge and closed his eyes. He wasn’t sure how long he lay there - he must of fallen asleep.
Robbie paused and tapped hot ashes from his pipe into the fire. Once empty he put the pipe into an ashtray on the metal TV tray beside the chair.

He started again, Mosey was awakened by a tugging on his boots. For a moment he thought he’d made it home and his wife, Bella was putting him to bed but then he remembered where he was and opened his eyes to discover a small creature trying to pull to his boots off.



Bella McClean (Orr) playing her melodeon

“The wee folk are excellent cobblers,” Robbie said as an aside, “they really can not resist a worn pair of boots.”

Suddenly, and with more coordination that he demonstrated in years, Mosey shot up and grabbed the being's leg. “Got you, you thieving little devil” he cried. “You’ll not have my boots”, he said tightening his grip.

The creature responded, “forgive me kind sir, I saw you were asleep and I was only trying to take your boots off so you’d be more comfortable”.

Then it dawned on Mosey, he captured a wee person, his mind raced to determine how he could best take advantage of the situation. “I’ll not let you go you evil little thing, I ought to murder you for trying to steal my only pair of boots” he exclaimed.

“No, no, no don’t hurt me,” responded the little man, “let me go and I will give you great wealth.”
“Great wealth”, Mosey responded, “what do you mean by that?”

“Let me go and I’ll fill your pockets with gold,” the little man said.

“Show me”, Mosey responded.

Still held upside down, the little man pointed to the base of a blackthorn bush. “Look there,” he said, “and you’ll have gold a plenty.” Mosey looked and saw a small pot of pebble sized gold nuggets. “Boys oh”, he said, picking up the pot with his free hand, his mind racing with excitement.

“Now let me go,” said the fairy man. “You’ve got gold a plenty - you’ll not need me.”
Mosey responded, “I am a man of my word,” and he freed the wee one from his grip. Quickly it vanished into the tangle of blackthorn roots.

“I am rich, I am rich,” Mosey sang to himself as he filled his coat pockets with nuggets, I’ll have whisky to spare, he thought. Still drunk and pockets full, he stumbled home. Once there, he passed out on his bed.
He was awakened by the dawn. He opened his eyes and remembered his good fortune of the night before. “I am rich, I am rich,” he said to himself over and over again. But when he got up and retrieved his coat he sadly found his pockets sadly empty. Pulling his pockets out he discovered that each one had a hole in it. Gold must have fallen out as I walked, he thought. He then went to the door and looked down the street.

Sure enough there was a zig-zagging trail of gold nuggets leading to the Hetherington place. Relieved, he went back inside to get a bag. I'll retrace my steps and put the gold in this bag, he thought. As he stepped out of the doorway the first rays of sun appeared from over the horizon and touched the ground. He was horrified when he saw that as the sun touched each nugget it transformed into an ordinary wee pebble! His now aching head filled with rage, he had been made a fool of and duped by the little man. He began to curse and as he did he thought he heard faint laughter from the hedge. Sure enough his exploits of the night before had a very different look in the clear light of day. In the end all he had was a mucky coat, bag of pebbles and a very sore head.

This story had stayed in Tommy's mind all of this life. How much of this is true he wondered? So, in 2012, at the age of 61 he and his son Matthew, then 18 set off in search of “leprechauns” (that is what they call the wee folk in American films) . While they discovered many things during their odyssey, they were not able to verify the truth of the story nor did they manage to find or capture any leprechauns (in spite of placing traps baited with old boots). They were however able to find and document some of the places mentioned in the story. The a future blog post will archive their findings.

Saturday, 26 October 2013

Final resting places

This posting archives the final resting places of some of Robert John McClean Hetherington's immediate family buried in Whitechurch Cemetery at Ards and other Hetherington graves in St. Eunan's at Raphoe.  The Raphoe Hetherington's may not be related or perhaps are related through Nathaniel Hetherington?  Pictures of the people interned are also presented.

I am not sure why Robbie's parents and uncle left Creggan. I suspect, political upheaval, a poor economy, and societal changes resulting from the Irish revolution were undoubtedly keenly felt by the Hetherington's of Upper Glenmacquin.  I also imagine the hardships of living with a well for water and out door toilets, etc. became increasing difficult to manage with age. These factors, and perhaps better seniors care, resulted in end of life aging in the UK and burial at the Whitechurch Cemetery, Ards.  They may have also simply wanted to eternally rest under the British flag and not the Irish Tri-colour?

Whitechurch Cemetery


 Margeret McClean and Andrew Hetherington


Andrew, Maggie and Robbie at house 1944


Headstone at Ards


 
William James Hetherington


 

  
William James and Johnston Headstones at Ards

 
Robbie, Edith (Johnston's wife) and Johnston Hetherington 1964
 


Edith Hetherington headstone at Ards

 Matt visiting Graveyard at St. Eunan's, 2012


 Not sure of relationship (Nathaniel?)


 Not sure of relationship (Nathaniel?)


Not sure if relationship?


Nathaniel Hetherington: Far away but not forgotten

 
hetheringtonbc.blogspot.ca

Nathaniel Hetherington (junior): “Far away but not forgotten.”
Photo and document credits: Adrian Johnston; Andrew Hetherington; Molly Macartney (nee: Hetherington)


Nathaniel Hetherington (junior)


Nathaniel moved to Scotland from the hill prior to 1905 where he become a policeman. He married Sarah Nesbit in 1909 in Glasgow. He enlisted in the Irish Guards and died on November 6, 1914 in one of the first battles of WWI. He is remembered on a plaque on the wall of St, Eunan's Cathedral in Raphoe and on the memorial arch in Ypres.

Nathaniel junior is the son Nathaniel senior (14 Feb 1858 to 2 Dec 1938) (and Mary Jane Kane) and brother of Johnston Hetherington (1846 to 9 Apr 1927)(wife Sarah McClean). Johnston Hetherington is Robert John McClean Hetherington's grandfather.



Christmas card to Aunt Sarah

Christmas card to Aunt Sarah inside


Post card


Post card reverse


Marriage Certificate




Plaque at St. Eunan's Raphoe






Regiment and name Ypres



Monument in Ypres



















Saturday, 28 September 2013

Clan McClean, Duart Castle and Whisky


MacLeans and Duart Castle 
The first recorded mention of the Macleans of Duart is in a papal dispensation of 1367 which allowed their Chief Lachlan Lubanach Maclean to marry the daughter of the Lord of the Isles, Mary Macdonald.
This it is said, was a love match, and her father was persuaded to allow it only after he had been kidnapped by Lachlan (an incident in which the Chief of the Mackinnons was killed). Thus the Macleans came to own much of Mull, the Mackinnon lands being granted to them by the Macdonalds as a dowry. Almost certainly, Lachlan built the keep that stands today though the great curtain walls were probably of the previous century.


The Macleans continued to use Duart as their base but they were always fighting for one cause or another. They were part of the loose alliance of West Coast chiefs who supported the Lord of the Isles. Hector Mor, born in 1497, succeeded his father in 1527 and was described as good, kind and brave. The power of the Lord of the Isles was now broken, the Macleans were wholly independent and the King of Scotland, James V, was making himself felt in the islands. Hector Mor was kidnapped, with many other Chiefs, by the King's Lord Lieutenant at a dinner on board ship off Aros Castle. Hector was only released when he agreed to the destruction of all his galleys. Hector Mor was also a builder.
He strengthened the South East buildings in the courtyard and added the gatehouse. Sir Lachlan, 16th Chief, was created a baronet by Charles I in 1631 and so began the century of unswerving loyalty to the House of Stewart which was to result in the Macleans losing all their lands.


Sir Lachlan joined Montrose and his Highland Army but when General Leslie invaded Mull in 1647, he was unable to hold Duart Castle against him. Sir Allan briefly recovered the castle after the restoration of Charles II to the throne in 1660. Sir Allan remodelled the North East range of buildings in 1673 only to lose the castle to the Earl of Argyll (pressing for repayment of considerable debts) in 1674.
The castle and lands were returned to Sir John, son of Sir Allan, in 1681 when the Earl of Argyll fell out of favour with the King, only to lose it again in 1691 when Argyll was once more in favour with the Whigs.
The castle became ruinous and was purchased by Sir Fitzroy Maclean, 26th Chief, in 1910. He then began the enormous task of repairing the building.


Fitzroy MacLean

    1. Restoration

Sir Fitzroy Maclean, born in 1835, was brought up largely in Gibralter and Malta, where his father was serving with his regiment.
Family history says Sir Charles took his son and daughters on a holiday to Scotland in the 1870s and, from then on, Sir Fitzroy was determined to purchase and restore the castle. In 1911 he finally achieved his aim and bought the ruined castle and 300 acres from Mrs Guthrie, the widow of Mr Murray Guthrie, who had inherited the estate from an uncle. She also changed the name of her home, built in 1850, from Duart to Torosay.
Several architects produced drawings and plans for Sir Fitzroy and the ones chosen were those of Sir John Burnett, an eminent architect from Glasgow. Before the restoration could begin the castle had to be excavated and several small items, such as snuffing scissors and wine bottles were found. Most of these objects were apparently left by the soldiers who had been billeted at Duart.
Though some original features were sadly lost, on the whole the restoration was very sympathetic to the original building, and an Edwardian house, complete with all the offices considered necessary, was placed with great care into the ruins of the castle.
    1. Present Day

                     Duart Castle

In 1991 Sir Lachlan Maclean, the present Clan Chief engaged Professor Sir James Dunbar Naismith to repair the castle. The main repairs were completed in 1995, but work on the castle still continues.
Today the castle is open to the public, for which there is an entrance charge. Visitors may walk through the dungeons and state rooms at their leisure, ending on the top of the keep where it is easy to appreciate the strategic site of the castle.
Below the castle Historic Scotland have designated a site of archaeological importance to mark the spot where the Swann and two of her sister ships sank in 1653.
They had been sent by Cromwell to capture the 10 year old chief who, fortunately, had been removed to the Treshnish Isles for safety.
In January 2000 Sir Lachlan planted the Millennium Wood, a collection of trees and shrubs indigenous to Argyll.
In 2012 at Maclean Gathering was held to mark the centenary of Maclean reoccupation of the castle.

Castle Duart - home to the Chief's of Clan Maclean. The Maclean lineage stems from old Dugald of Scone, of the Royal House of Lorne from the ancient Celtic Kings of Dalriada. Macleans take their name from one of the descendents, a legendary hero of the thirteenth century, Gillean-Na-Tuagha (Gillean of the Battle Axe). Gillean or Gilleoin means a devotee of St. John. Hence his children are called Clan Gillean. Great warriors and supporters of Robert Bruce, they fought at Bannockburn under Gillie Callum. His son, John, obtained grant of lands in Mull and his sons, Lachlan, Duart, and Hector Loch Buie established the Maclean Clan that rose to great power and influence under the Lordship of the Isles. On the forteiture of the Lordship the Maclean’s transferred their loyalty to the Stuart kings. Their loyalty to the Stuarts nearly brought them to ruin (Clan Campbell had a lot to do with it), but they have survived through hard and difficult times. In modern times, Duart remains the main Clan seat and Clan Chief, Sir Lachlan Maclean of Duart and Movern Bt. Is the twenty-eighth Chief of Clan Gillean.

A Commemorative Maclean Duart Whisky
To commemorate the one hundred year anniversary of the restoration Duart Castle, a special Tobermory “Maclean whisky” was drawn and distributed to Clan Members. 

 

"The whisky is an 18 year old Tobermory Malt Whisky and is being drawn from the one cask producing about 300 bottles. The bottle is packaged in a pine box with the Clan Crest on the box. The bottle itself is wrapped in a copy of the front page of one of the newspapers that published details of the Gathering in 1912. The box also has an explanation leaflet on the whisky, the centenary and Charlie Macleans tasting notes. I should have said that this whisky has been selected by Charlie Maclean. Any profits made from the sale of this whisky will go into helping repair the fabric of the Castle." With many thanks. Lachlan.   Sir Lachlan Maclean, 28th Chief of Maclean.

A bottle of this whisky was approved for distribution by Sir Lachlan (as part of the Clan Maclean private release to Clan members) and was transported from Mull and hand delivered by Paul Maclean to Brad Hetherington in Victoria, BC. This bottle was subsequently given to Matthew Hetherington on the occasion of his 19th birthday (January 21, 2013) by his father Tom McClean Hetherington to commemorate the welcoming of Matthew as an adult member of Clan McClean.

May life's many pleasures be enjoyed with the respect and caution they deserve ”

Cheers!